CYCLEFIT ETAPE RIDING GUIDE

IT'S NOT ABOUT THE CLIMBS
The Bike, The Body, The Ride

CV= ƒ(kW/bm, bp&s, mf, cve, £) - The Wall / Cavell Paradox
CV= Climbing Velocity is some function of:
kW = kilowatt / bm (body mass – i.e (power to weight) (c)
bp&s = bike position and set-up (v)
mf – moral fibre (v?)
cve = cardio-vascular endurance (c)
£ = disposable income investment in performance equipment (8v)
This year’s Etape is not about the climbs. Insofar as the pace you climb at on July 6th is pretty much already pre-determined by largely unchangeable variables:
• Your power/weight ratio
• Your fitness-level and endurance
• Your bike’s weight and frictional losses (minimal effect)
• Your bike’s gearing
• Your Bike position and biomechanical efficiency (Can still be changed)
You will therefore climb the Tourmalet and Hautacam at pretty much your own pre-set pace. The climbs will last two to three hours and then you will move on with your life. Nobody can help you, there is no drafting and little tactics. Sorry to be so brusque but that is the truth.
But you can make big gains and improvements on both the rolling and downhill sections of the route where technique and tactics have a huge effect. With this controversial perspective in mind here are our top tips for not only surviving the 2008 Etape but maximizing your potential.


THE BODY
1. Keep riding through the preceding week. Decrease mileage and intensity but keep legs fluid and supple. Ride low-gears and slightly higher cadences. Increase stretching to stop your legs locking and going into ‘recovery mode’.
2. If you are still doing leg weights stop now. Now is the last week you can still fully recover from heavy leg-weights.
3. Don’t walk around much the day before. Visit only Rapha and CycleFit stands at Expo. Do stay off your feet.
4. Do also try and ride your bike for about an hour. Don’t climb but do put in a couple of sprinting hard efforts for a couple of minutes. Get those pipes open.
5. Stock up on sleep the week preceding the event. You may not sleep to much the night before.
THE BIKEYou will subject your bike to huge loads and demands during the Etape. If it is not in superb condition and fit for purpose then your performance and safety are compromised.
1. Clean bike and check for evolving cracks, damage and wear
2. Check cleats two weeks before the event. Change at that time if necessary. A worn cleat has wrecked many etapes. Try to avoid changing cleats just before the event in case the position is wrong.
3. Change your tyres if necessary one week before the event and make sure they are well scrubbed in before the start for maximum grip.
4. Get a new cassette and chain if necessary. Worn ones will function poorly and detract from your overall efficiency.
5. We favour clinchers and alloy braking surfaces. Tub nightmares can be hard to wake from mid-event.
6. Get new brake pads. If it rains (and it very often does in the Pyrenees you will easily get through a set on the ride.
7. Take these things with you. We did and were very smug:

• 2 x spare inner-tubes.
• 1 x proper HPX pump – we do not recommend inflators – they save very little weight and often fail.
• Set of allen keys
• Set 3m self adhesive patches (good for both tyre-carcass and tube repairs)
• Arm-warmers, gilet, cycling cap (good for keeping rain out of your eyes)
• Credit card, cash (good for reinforcing side-wall tears)

8. Wear your favourite and most comfortable riding kit. You will get a psychological boost from having immaculately prepared kit and bike. Act like a professional and strangers will treat you like one. This is vital.
9. Check your tyre-pressure on the morning of the ride. Drop at least 10% if there is any chance of rain/snow. You will appreciate the extra contact patch, grip and feel.
10. Check condition of footbeds and make sure they are in the right shoes.
11. Transport shoes, pedals and footbeds in your hand-luggage (you can always beg,steal or borrow a spare bike if your’s flies to Hong Kong.
THE RIDE 1. Prepare for the worst. It often rains and snows in The Pyrenees even in the summer. The last time we did this route it snowed on the top of every climb. Take arm-warmers, knee-warmers, water-proof, long-finger gloves and a gilet if bad weather is forecast.
2. Start fast but not flat-out. The long flat and rolling sections are where you can ride in fast-moving bunches to save time and maximize your efforts. Remember it is up to 30% easier to ride in the wheels than it is on your own for the same pace! Try and get in the fastest moving group you can tolerate. Effort here is well rewarded. Remember your bunch riding skills:
• Stay close to the wheel in front by looking through the rider – don’t look at their back wheel.
• Keep your upper-body relaxed and your arms soft
• Don’t make any sudden movements that could panic the group
• Riders tend to go forwards on the outside and backwards through the middle. Make sure you are not getting shuffled to the back of the pack.
• Contribute to through and off to maintain race-pace but don’t get stuck on the front.
• Prepare for your group to echelon into a wing in the event of a strong side-wind.
• Hop across to a faster group if you are too comfortable in the one you are in.
3. Descend like a God in three easy steps: Line, Vision and Body Position • Line – By far the most important. The fastest way around the corner is the straightest line. The racing line (see diagram 1). Note – always be willing to sacrifice line for grip. Deviate from the racing line for a drier, grippier, smoother line.
• Vision. Your bike will follow your head and eyes. If you see a potential hazard then acknowledge it then drag your eyes and head away to the safe exit route (i.e. where you want to be). Your bike will follow. Stare at the hazard and you will sure to hit it – this is called target-fixing. For normal fast descending teach yourself to turn your head and eyes to the best and most effective exit of the corner. Look and your bike will follow.
• Body position (see diagram 2): Head up Weight on the outside pedal (helps grip and feedback) Arms relaxed and on the drops Sit deep in the saddle (lower centre of gravity) Body-weight to the inside of the bike
• Drop the inside knee into the corner to lower centre of gravity
• Lay the bike over with the saddle using the inside of your thighs
Braking Tips:
• Don’t comfort brake – it dramatically reduces your average speed, wears your brake pads out and has a substantial physiological cost (arm, shoulder, neck pump). Only brake when you have to.
• The front brake is always more effective when descending. Don’t over-work the back brake as it will only lock the back wheel.
• Try to brake up to and into the corner only. Hit the apex and then accelerate or let the bike run out.
• It is possible to drag the brakes into the corner if you go in to hot. Try to resist the urge to stand the bike up, it is usually better to try and make the corner.